Horse Barns

If you’re asking me, go vertical roof every time. Those panels run top-to-bottom, so rain, snow, and leaves slide right off — less cleaning, drier stalls. Regular and boxed-eave roofs work in mild, dry areas, but vertical is worth it if your weather changes its mind every other day.

Most counties require one if it’s anchored. Some are simple — just a quick form. Others want full site plans and engineered drawings (we have them ready for most states). Tell me your location, and I can tell you in minutes.

• Compacted gravel or clay + stall mats – Soft on joints, good drainage.

• Concrete – Great for feed rooms or wash bays, but use mats in stalls to prevent slipping.

Absolutely. Popular upgrades include:

• Extra stalls

• Tack/feed rooms

• Wash bays

• Lean-tos for storage

• Dutch/sliding stall doors

• Insulation for cold climates

• Color-matching to your home or barn

Most horses are fine with 10–12 ft legs. For draft horses or loft storage, go taller. Don’t forget door height — you and your horse should clear it easily without ducking.

• Summer: Ridge vents, gable vents, and open stall fronts for airflow.

• Winter: Enclose sides, add insulation, and keep ventilation balanced so moisture doesn’t build up.

Yes — when built to code and anchored right. We’ve had barns stand through 90+ mph winds and heavy snow loads. The right bracing, roof style, and steel gauge matter here.

• Small 2–3 stall barns: 1–2 days

• Larger/custom builds: 3–4 days

Still far faster than stick-built barns.

Yep. Options include Rent-to-Own (no credit check) and traditional financing. Most owners finance so they can build now and pay over time.

Go steel. No painting, no rot, no termites. Just clear the roof of leaves, rinse stalls as needed, and check fasteners once a year.