Metal Sheds

Most sheds use 6–8 ft legs. If you want tall shelves or to roll a UTV in, go 8–10 ft. Measure your tallest item (handlebars, ladder, roof rack) and add 12–18 in so you’re not ducking every time. Heads-up: door headers eat some clearance.

Ballparks (installed; slab not included and your zip/code can swing it):

• 8×12 / 10×12 basic: ~$2,000–$3,500

• 10×16 / 12×16 w/ better doors/windows: ~$3,300–$5,500

12×20 / 12×24 w/ height or roll-up: ~$4,800–$7,500+
Vertical roof, heavier steel, extra doors, and insulation push it up.

Usually for anything anchored or 200+ sq. ft. Some HOAs care about color and setbacks. We can provide engineered drawings; you handle submittal. Don’t pour a slab before the permit’s approved.

We don’t pour slabs, but here’s the playbook:

• Best: 4″ reinforced concrete slab (level, square, broom finish)

• Budget: Compacted, level gravel (drains well)

Temporary: Level dirt works, but it shifts with weather Planning power, heavy shelving, or a workbench? Concrete pays you back.

Mild/dry climate: regular or boxed-eave saves a few bucks. Trees, heavy rain, or snow: go vertical roof so water and leaves don’t sit on seams. That upgrade prevents half the headaches I’m called to look at.

All day long. Common setup is a roll-up (6×7 or 8×8) for the mower and a walk-door for daily use. Add windows for light, move doors to the gable for better access, bump leg height if your gear is tall. If you might add a bigger door later, tell us now and we’ll frame that bay right.

Yes—if we design it for your area and anchor it right. Most sheds use 14-ga frame with 29-ga panels; tougher zones often bump to 12-ga frame and 26-ga panels with extra bracing. Anchors matter: wedge bolts in concrete; earth augers in gravel/dirt. A vertical roof helps shed water and snow.

Two things: airflow + barrier. Ridge/gable vents let the place breathe; foil-backed bubble cuts “sweating.” Sensitive storage or regular shop time? Use fiberglass batts or closed-cell spray foam. Keep boxes off the slab (pallets), don’t park wet gear against walls, and add gutters to stop splash-back.

With permits done and the pad ready:

• Small sheds: Half a day

• Mid-size: About a day
• Larger/custom: 1–2 days

Weather and tight access are the usual slow-downs.

Yes. Most folks use simple financing or Rent-to-Own (credit-flexible). Spread the payments and keep cash free for the slab or grading.

Standard sweet spot is 14-ga frame / 29-ga panels. Harsh weather or you just want it beefier? Step to 12-ga frame / 26-ga panels. We’ll steer you by zip code and use case.

Sure. Plan ahead—taller legs, the right door sizes, a couple outlets, and insulation. If you’ll add power later, have your concrete guy run conduit stubs now so you’re not cutting the slab.

Lockable roll-ups, steel walk-doors with deadbolts, fewer windows on the street side, and solid anchoring. Add motion lights or a camera if you’re storing high-value tools.

Three big ones: going too small, pouring a slab before plans/permit are locked, and setting the shed tight to a fence so doors can’t swing and you can’t mow behind it. Give yourself a little room. Future-you will be happier.