Two Car Garages

More than you think. Always.

20×20 is the bare minimum—just fits two cars with maybe 18 inches to squeeze between them. Try getting groceries out of your trunk in that space.

24×24 is better—gives you walking room and space for some wall storage. 24×30 if you want a workbench or riding mower in there too.

I’ve seen too many people go small to save money, then call me back wanting to add on. It’s just gonna cost more later.

Right now? 20×20 basic setup runs $6,200-$7,800 installed. That’s with one 16×8 overhead door, one walk door, and basic colors.

Want insulation? Add $1,200. Upgrade to 18×8 door? Another $400. Windows, fancy colors, steeper roof pitch—all that adds up quick.

For 24×24 with some upgrades, you’re looking at $10,000-$13,000 easy. Material costs keep going up, so these numbers might be higher next quarter.

Don’t forget concrete if you need it—that’s another $1,600-$2,000 for a 20×20 pad.

Pretty much anything that makes sense structurally.

Want two separate 8×8 doors instead of one big one? No problem. Windows on the back wall for light? Easy. Roll-up door on one end and regular overhead on the other? Done it before.

Roof styles—regular gable, gambrel for more headroom, or lean-to if you’re adding onto something. Can do different pitches but I won’t go under 3:12 because of drainage issues.

What doesn’t work is trying to make it look fancy like a stick-built garage. It’s metal construction—it’s gonna look like what it is.

Not required, but probably should. Here’s why:

Gravel works for just parking, but you’ll have dust, moisture problems, and uneven spots where jacks won’t sit right. Plus, if you ever want electric service, the inspector’s gonna want that slab anyway.

Concrete runs about $4-5 per square foot installed. Yeah, it’s $1,500-$2,000 more upfront, but makes everything else easier. Easier to clean oil spills, better for tools and workbenches, and keeps moisture down.

Clay soil or poor drainage? Definitely need concrete, or you’ll have standing water issues.

It depends on your location.

Around here, 4:12 is standard—good drainage, not too expensive to frame. If you’re in mountain areas with heavy snow loads, might need 5:12 or 6:12.

Flatter pitches like 3:12 work in dry areas, but I’ve seen problems with debris buildup and standing water. Won’t warranty anything under 3:12.

Steeper costs more—more framing, more steel panels—but lasts longer and sheds everything better.

Lead times are still running 5-7 weeks from order to delivery. Used to be 3-4 weeks, but steel supply chain’s still messed up.

Installation’s usually 1-2 days once we get there. Bigger garages take longer—24×30 might be 2-3 days, depending on site conditions and how many doors/windows you got.

Weather delays things too. Can’t set trusses in high winds or work in ice/snow conditions.

Built right? Yeah. I engineer every building for local codes—usually 90 mph winds, 25-30 psf snow load, depending on your exact location.

Use proper anchor bolts, space the framing right (usually 4′ centers for walls, 24″ for roof purlins), tie everything together with hurricane clips. That’s how you get a building that lasts 30+ years.

Problem is when people try to cut corners on foundation or use undersized framing. Seen some failures from other companies doing that.

Almost always, yeah. Most counties require permits for anything over 200 square feet, and even a 20×20 is 400 square feet.

Good news is I’ve got standard plans for most local building departments. Engineered drawings, foundation details—all that stuff I’ve got ready to go.

Permit usually runs $100-$200, depending on your county. Takes 1-3 weeks to get approved if there’s no complications.

Check HOA rules too if you’ve got one—they sometimes have color restrictions or setback requirements.